I can't see if that is the normal engine earth wire location, mine is on one of the bellhousing bolts close to the starter motor, but it is a different engine. It will disable starting while in that state. A problem with the key or immobiliser will make it flash much faster, and it will start to flash out a code. The normal display for the immobiliser LED (between those gauges) is one flash every few seconds while the ignition is off. But they are probably at least 75% accurate.Ī red light is flashing between the temp guage and fuel guage, cluster display shows black blocks then goes normal then bonnet open and engine system fault is displayed, I think it could have something to do with the earth wire, may have it in the wrong place I am a bit suspicious of these tests, too often they seem to give the answer the tester wants, ie new battery needed. Most garages, or even Halfords, will test a battery for you. But usually there will be some indication via warning lights and stored error codes (DTCs). Modern electronic cars are rather susceptible to voltage variations, so might unexpectedly grind to a halt. But a working battery provides a vital role in stabilising and smoothing the output from the alternator. While driving, the alternator should provide all the power that is needed, so enabling the engine to keep going. And also do all the warning lights come on when the ignition is first turned on? It is sadly quite possible for unscrupulous sellers to tamper with warning lights to sell a car. But there are plenty of other possibilities. We jump start driving home then car cuts out and now won't start could battery cause this problemĬould be.
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